LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W 2011: DAY FIVE

Mary Katrantzou

For some, ‘getting’ Mary Katrantzou may require a bit of training. The venue held many trained eyes, still, the collection left the audience gasping. Inspired by iconic Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, coromandel screens and the interwar period, Mary’s creations are the most daring and most beautiful floral, ornamental and scenic print clashes I’ve seen so far, liberally applied all over her signature scuplted structures. And they are quite up there with the frescos of the greatest Roman catholic cathedrals, the intricate ornaments of orthodox churches, regal wallpapers and the most elaborate embroidery patterns from all over the world. Mary, another designer of the evolutionary type, has stubbornly held her own in the fashion scene, secretly executing her plan for the world to burst into bloom. Mission accomplished – next move?

Marios Schwab

Incredibly good dresses in full leather or with leather panels or sleeves. As you watch them pass one by one, even the simple and more flowy ones seem brutally structured, adding to the somewhat futuristic S&M feel of gloves, zips, buckled belts and cutouts. After the spectacular sculpted puffa pieces come more of Marios’ take on shift dresses, but the music (which transitions from an industrial tune with a hint of Depeche Mode to a rave beat) dispels any doubts that it’s still the dominatrix we see. The Marios Schwab girl just needs to let her hair down, she’s got a monster of a wardrobe to conquer the world. And I mean both quite literally.

Aquascutum

Here’s another great British brand I’ve always loved but tend to forget about, mostly because my perception of its designs has had its highs and lows. To me, this collection says Aquascutum is on the rise again. Besides great colour blocking and geometry, it teaches us a lesson in smart layering with an edge, using loose-fitting pieces in soft, creamy colours, flashes of blue and orange, and clever cover-ups. Oh, and cutesy furry handwarmers.

Meadham Kirchhoff

The Meadham Kirchhoff show was indeed one to remember. Not only did it puzzle the audience but it made up for a day’s worth of show delays, thanks to Edward and Benjamin’s latest innovation, the one-minute show. I wonder if anyone remembers the clothes though, beyond ‘surreal’. In monochrome or red, the models were styled like they have just walked out of genre paintings of the Dutch Golden Age. Well, I often think fashion is the art and the work of the everydays, and even more so for our designer guys. Only, they have made it just a little too difficult to see behind the styling. Now it’s up to us find the pieces we can see ourselves wearing.

Amanda Wakeley

This is about the simply dressed, sophisticated lady, with a bunch of 1980s elements, red lips, bodycon, full skirted vest dresses, metallics and transparencies. It’s all cleverly cut and panelled and, as Amanda confesses, ‘calculatedly understated’. Call it what you will, no passion comes across even though most of it is perfectly cool. And where I see no passion I don’t go.

Ashish

A crazy, crazy collection made from heritage and glam-punk turned upside down and inside out. Ashish girls and boys play it trashy, sparkly, playful, cheeky, colourful and cool, and totally irreverent. And they all wear cobweb knee tattoos or whatever those things are. You won’t see me anywhere near these clothes because of the sequins, but still. Respect.

runway stills: elleuk.com