LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W 2011: DAY FOUR, PART ONE

Peter Pilotto

It’s print or dye at Peter Pilotto, inspired by traditional Japanese ceramics and Poiret and Martino Gamper’s chair compositions. One thing is for certain, it’s working serious magic on simple dresses and tops, and gives structure -together with a feel of sharp tailoring- to jackets. Prints include rope or chain, stripes and zigzags, waves and even false pockets, before deconstructed shirts take centre stage, made into draped, asymmetric dresses or tunics. As the long, military style jackets and the maxi dresses close the show, I manage to formulate the thought gnawing at my all along: I’m afraid I might just be in need of... a pair of quilted puffa boots.

Basso and Brooke

Swirling, splashing, smudgy, clashing, overgrowing, marbled prints combining bold and muted colours… but once you’re past colour shock you get from the longline blazers, you’re over the rainbow. Luckily, shapes are kept simple to let the prints shine. I’m dazzled by the flowy dresses and the sand-hued pieces, so much that I will be working up the courage to make such a fashion statement myself, and will be working hard.

David Koma

David Koma’s incredible, organic spot prints give the illusion of strong structures in black and nude, in patent and matte leather, fur trims and pom-poms. For the second part, enter the pom poms in primary colours, and hell breaks loose. Read the mood piece on David Koma's collection to learn about the attack of the little furry beasts.

Pringle of Scotland

If I was just told Pringle combined heritage, minimal, 60s and 70s, I would have a hard time trying to imagine what that’s supposed to look like. Well, it’s simply beautiful. Slim pants and wide legs, flowy and structured, tweed and knitwear, leather and fur, capes and A-lines in earthy tones with the odd flash of colour. It’s all cozy and heavy British, while still a class act in modernism with a bohemian vibe.

Christopher Kane

A crochet print leather tee? Yes, please! A crochet print leather pencil skirt or blazer? Luxe sportswear in crochet? All paired with almond-toed semi-open mary janes? Christopher Kane has officially been too cool for school for some time, but this is his most daring collection I’ve seen. The signature element is the cute wave detailing on pockets, necklines, at the front or waist, which is bound to give any mermaid that just-out-of-the-sea look. Even more so on pieces with organza inserts, and still more so when we get to all the sequins that double as fish scales underneath all the organza. Chris Kane continues with his transformation season after season, moving out of his comfort zone and, ever so gently, steering us out of ours. One of our best style mentors, this guy is.

Michael van der Ham

Master of Mismatch of prints, textures and colours is back with two key trends for autumn/winter. One, soft, drapey, asymmetric dresses and tops in jewel-coloured crushed velvet (note the same-hue blocks in bright blue, navy, mustard, blood orange, scarlet and lilac). Two, a patchwork style mishmash of fabrics and prints, and again, lots of asymmetry, with a standout element of metallics and metallic fringes in silver and pink gold.

runway stills: elleuk.com.