Irish-born Orla Kiely, to most of us, is the woman behind the most iconic prints of all time. But one glance at her collections will make you fall in love with each and every piece. She shows you with ease that a 1960s feel is so much more than A-lines, peacoats, monochrome and geometry, while the clothes are every bit as modern as they are true to the 60s. There is simplicity, cuteness, colour blocks (blocks, waves, swipes!), and there is that cheek my mum had on her photos back in the day. You can easily see what I mean just in the details: the socks, the knits, peterpan collars, checks, stripes and print clashes, pussybows, or big contrast buttons. A 1950s schoolgirl that grows into a woman in the 1960s. Here’s to making her feel at home again in 2011.
runway stills: vogue.co.uk
Watch the making of Orla’s woodland space inspired by Hitchcock's Birds, at the Portico Rooms, Somerset House, to capture the season’s creepy magic.
Maria Grachvogel
The Lancaster Ballroom of the Savoy proved to be a great backdrop to Maria’s collection, with symphonic music and conceptual make-up accentuating the drama, the mystery and a sinister edge dreamt into the clothes by the designer. As you watch taking it all in, drapey, flowy silhouettes and a tactile softness glide across the room in artistic print and monochrome magic, in a prolonged moment of soft, pared-back glamour and suspense. Grown-up, chic and sophisticated.
runway stills: elleuk.com
Jena Theo
2009 Fashion Fringe winners Jenny and Dimitris go thoroughly deconstructed art deco and warrior fantasy, living on the edge of the 1970s and the 1980s, to create a collection for city amazons too cool for ‘trends’. Jena Theo has so far the softest and wildest structuring, one that claims a life of its own, achieved through draping, asymmetry, layering, a cocoon effect, ruching, panels and patchwork in the creative duo's signature colour palette. If you want to wow with an almost otherworldly flow and movement or a most unique silhouette in a city crowd weighed down by chunky winterwear, head to Jena Theo and cover up good. Make-up is optional, wild hair a must.
runway stills:vogue.co.uk
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