In his spring/summer 2012 collection, brimming with the same opulence in jacquard and soft pearly metallics as the ones before, bigger, balloon-like shapes take centre stage. A sadness at first glimpse - our beloved designer moves away from the A-lined, big buttoned dresses and coats of his own feisty 1960s flick chicks (sporting 1970s colours), and dives into a sea of peach fuzz and sugar syrup.
The movie Whatever Happened to Baby Jane, with Bette Davis, has lots to answer for: giving you the creeps, and having inspired the power-baby-doll aesthetic Costelloe has in store for us for next spring, with statement ruffles and angel sleeves, bubble skirts, lots of floaty satins and over-the-top princess cuts in blush, sand, coral and pearl grey.
However, the more you look, the more you realise that all this cupcake sweetness is balanced off with cool shift dresses and coats and then by a few 1980s femme fatale looks coming down the runway. Think hot nurse in a shirt or trench dress, or off-duty superwoman on a safari – clearly a taste of what’s to come.
GREYCATTE'S PICKS
No surprises there I assume. I may leave you with the wrong impression of this collection, but my clear favourites are the structured, understated pieces, the less flirty ones if you will, at least by Costelloe's standards... enjoy, and let me know if you're ready to embrace your inner power bunny.
runway stills: vogue.co.uk
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