KINDER AGGUGINI: HOME BY THE SEA

I don't think it's appropriate to try and unlock the secret of Kinder, or the overwhelming effect of his work on me. But without a conscious glimpse, you might be tempted to label anything and everything I say as mindless gushing. Well, I've got a mind all right. And you have to see this.

It's the pure and natural uber-coolness of his collections that never ceases to amaze me. There is exuberance without over-complication, genius without forced cleverness, boldness and optimism without any sort of vulgarity, cuteness without a saccharine aftertaste, art instead of snobbishness, and desirable, wearable clothes around a concept that is not forced on you. Plus that je ne sais quoi, a sense of style expressed in a way that hits close to home. When what you see on the catwalk seems to describe a certain part of you to astonishing detail, falling for it is as easy as breathing. Now, that's what it's like for me.

For Kinder, inspiration came via Hemingway's Old Man and The Sea, conversations, man to sea, woman to woman, and the strength of womankind. And while these did translate into sky and sea, antique maps and sailor-tattoo prints, double breasted blazers, fishermen's caps and rain macs, it also comes across that the novel sparked a deeper creative process of poking around life and getting a feel for the different roles people play, and the tools they have, to fight the elements and fulfill their destinies.

An imprint left by last season's cowboys lingers in the western shirts and in the large diagonal gingham print. But as one collection morphs into the other, so do the prints within this one - they are combined, layered or standing alone, like characters, qualities or locations in a story. The more feminine, baroque tapestry style sailor print, either alone or layered with youthful gingham, is like a home or a family, a natural backdrop to all the seaworthy action as it reaches its climax in the swirling surreal softness of the octopus gowns, of meeting your destiny... a final step that very nearly takes Kinder from Hemingway through García Márquez and into the realm of realismo mágico.

runway stills: vogue.co.uk

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Dear Diary,

I travelled across the mainland, leaving many a cowboy behind forever as I reached the shore. The blue sea, teeming with life, fascinates me. I would surround myself with its creatures if I could, and one day I will, but for now, I can only choose to be wrapped up in them. Too much at one with my surroundings, I cannot truly blend in. This home by the sea I found is rustic, but there's something about the tapestries, the tablecloths, and the dresses still hanging in the wardrobe... Boarding ships really is fun, second only to going underwater. The sailors see me but sometimes they like to pretend they don't. After all, what am I, goddess or ghost, danger or guiding light? Whatever tales they entertain themselves with, that's their game. And this is mine. I find I'm getting more mischievous by the century. Now, for example, I'm of a mind to dive into the sea in an octopus dress and see if I can resurrect the kraken legend. I can't wait to see the look on their faces...

A sequel to this mood piece, apparently part of The Story of My Immortal.