And so we continue with our quick looks of New York Fashion Week for autumn/winter 2013 - quite a few to watch too!
Nicholas K
Soft, dark, layered, drapey. It's rock & roll without the screaming - is there such thing as understated rock & roll? And if there is, would you believe it can actually work? Now I do. Technically, it's more parachute chic than anything but it's flattering without trying, quirky without being offensive. Strong statements, stripped of all that's obvious.
Very, very grungy - trousers under skirts and dresses, beanies, bits of transparency, Turkish tile print, lots of black. Not my favourite collection of the house - would not work on someone like me - but it's easy to appreciate for what it is: cool, effortless and relaxed.
Holmes & Yang
Smart looks, basic pieces with amazingly clever cuts. A collection based around check print and a beautiful shade of blue.
Richard Chai Love
Love Richard Chai. That's words unscrambled. I just can't resist a boxy, structured, body-hugging, richly detailed military style look, or the cleanest kind of ladylikeness. Although the key little twists are the checks and the metallics, Richard does everything with the seams - the shaping, the nipped-in effect, the tailored feel, the smartness, the androgyny, the femininity. He's got style.
Creatures Of The Wind
Welcome to the next level of colour blocking, courtesy of COTW. Great, flattering shapes combined with unusual touches just so, that the collection gives the impression that it's totally unique. Makes you want to get it all, wear it and stand out from the crowd. That is, trendy and wearable in a very individual way. Again, huge potential, guys.
Erin Fetherston
She's got a cocktail dress for all occasions. All the hours of the day. In the styles of all the decades women have had a need for cocktails. Maybe even for all ages of women - true, most of the dresses are youthful (I mean teens to forties), but I can't imagine women any age not wanting to wear Erin's creations.
Kimberly Ovitz
Full of drama and colour. There is soft beauty in the large, nearly tye-dye smudge print in the deeper, glowing colours of sun and sky, layering in pearly metallic grey, both softness and boxier shapes in austere black, and the odd bodycon in a flash of bright blue. I think you'll find the way this collection captures moods really amazing.
Timo Weiland
Cool outfits in black, white, blue and red, crisp contrasts and smart checks. You totally see yourself wearing these to feel smart, chic and tough at the same time, as an antidote to the usual boring formal way you are usually expected to dress. My kind of boy-girl attitude, a true winner.
Tadashi Shoji
Silk, lace, velvet alternate in delicate dresses that come in all the sweet vintage styles you can imagine, and then some. My favourites are the Victorian-cut grey velvet, the square neck and the baroque lace numbers - you can pick yours.
Costello Tagliapietra
Feminine through and through, dominated by beautiful, softly draped dresses in autumn colours and prints.
Tanya Taylor
Another quirky smart girl clad in cute check, geometric and baroque print, and unique colour combos and contrasts.
Edun
Lots of leather and black, with some loud prints and pops of red. Longline tops or dresses with leggings are reminders of the 1990s, while metallics, check print, wool blazers and leather bikers are the classics, spiced up with studs and chains as embellishment.
Sachin + Babi
All sorts of panelling meets everything you can do with a piece of fabric. The result is quite a visual and tactile experience, with a dash of plain fierceness, and a reminder of a Dolce & Gabbana show outfit from a few seasons ago, the youthful one with the golden headphones.
Kenneth Cole
An early favourite of mine, quite androgynous and demure, temporarily forgotten with the sometimes overdone femininity, and the rule of florals and baroque of these past years (or decade). Now he shows us how strictness can be subtly playful. Not that he won't dip his toes into a bit of baroque mirror print, by the way.
runway stills: vogue.co.uk, elle.com
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